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Consult a qualified The qualified installer or agency must use Read these instructions thoroughly and Consult local This is the safety-alert symbol WARNING signifies hazards which CAUTION is used to It is imperative ductwork is not under Each zone has independent temperature These words are used with the safety-alert symbol. DAN- and heating equipment to control temperatures in 2 distinct spaces GER identifies the most serious hazards which will result in severe or zones within a building. It is recommended that the bypass be your local codes.) (See Fig. Zone Perfect Two-Zone operates the heat pump by energiz- I. Zone Perfect Two-Zone will not shut 2. If selected thermostat is a heat pump (HP) or 2-speed (2S) down second-stage cooling (if used);. This delay is present upon initial power up. There is also a 5-minute timeguard delay for all cooling (Y1) and heat pump modes. The time guard can be cleared by using the comprotec override feature. When the duct temperature problems and errors associated with the Zone Perfect Two-Zone reaches this temperature setting, the duct temperature system. See Table 2. Lo- energized. Although much of what we’ll discuss here could pertain to either type of system, the focus of this article is troubleshooting electronic zoning systems on a service call. SERVICE CLINIC DOUG VICKERY Mar 01, 2012 But there can be some real bugs in implementation if you’re not careful. Problems we encounter on service calls typically fall into two categories: Glitches aren’t common in electronic zoning systems, but when they do occur they can be very tricky to pin down — especially if they occur only intermittently. The difference is how the dampers are opened and closed. Although much of what we’ll discuss here could pertain to either type of system, the focus of this article is troubleshooting electronic zoning systems on a service call. Depending on outside conditions, you may need to temporarily shut down power to the system’s condensers. http://l-tailor.ru/userfiles/continuum-mechanics-for-engineers-solution-manual-download.xml

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You want to assess how the system is performing at full airflow, with all dampers open and the blower running on high fan speed. This is a good opportunity to verify that the zoning system’s dampers are not stuck. If a system is equipped with a bypass damper, it’s usually closed when the system is in full-call mode. There should be an appreciable increase in air delivery in the remaining zones. This may be difficult to identify in variable-speed systems or systems that have a bypass damper, but at a minimum there should be no more air delivered to the zone that’s shut down. This may seem like an obvious step, but technicians often skip these basics and attempt to go right into hardware diagnostics. You probably will have to wait through a slight delay in order to validate that the system has responded. Look for the same airflow confirmations as you did when running the system on full-call. While it would be possible to save some time by doing this at the zone board, you want to verify that each control and its corresponding wiring connections are good. Here a few problems you might find: Check these for possible trouble codes. For example, poor wiring work is a common cause of board failure. Has the wiring been labeled, organized, and correctly finished. Another cause of board failure is improper power. Most manufacturers suggest that a separate, dedicated 24V transformer be used to power their system. Has that been used in this case. Was it sized appropriately to the amount of hardware connected. Using a dedicated 60VA transformer is low-cost insurance that full low-voltage power will be available to run the system. Some installers take the extra step of putting surge protection on that circuit, which is a nice show of craftsmanship. What system operation would have to occur to cause that sensor to trip. Do you know the trip temperature points. They can vary by manufacturer. Placement of these sensors also can be an issue. http://au-coeur-du-temps.com/userfiles/continuum-laser-manual.xml

Is the leaving-air sensor in a location where radiant heat from the furnace can trigger nuisance trips. Bypass dampers that are allowing too much flow can be another factor that causes sensors to trip. With two different fan speeds (heating and cooling) where is the appropriate active bypass pressure. Is the pivot dry or in need of some lubricant. Pivots can stick and then loudly bang when they finally free up, and that can be a tough noise to track down. What role (if any) is the program function of the thermostat having on zone function. Does the homeowner tend to designate one zone as occupied and leave the others shut down? What’s the probability of a system glitch with only 25 of the system calling. If the system receives a call for operation from zone three (only), the increased air delivery and noise level can result in complaints. You might need to consider a dump zone or setting all zone dampers to permit some air bleed-off (i.e., never closing 100). Try setting 80 closed as the maximum initially, then test for effect. Nobody likes a callback after changing a zone board, only to find it was just a thermostat. But in the end there are two inescapable truths. The first is that if the original system was based on oversized equipment selection (highly likely) then a zoning retrofit will be a bit dicey. It can work, but it’s usually going to be necessary to modify and enhance the ductwork. The second truth is that homes that have zoning without a variable-speed furnace just aren’t getting the full benefit of what zoning can do to enhance comfort. A great zoning system delivers that, and at a relatively low cost compared to multiple systems. In today’s economy, zoning really makes sense. Becoming proficient at making sure these zoned systems are delivering the maximum comfort they’re capable of is crucial if we want the homeowner to be happy with the result of our service call. http://schlammatlas.de/en/node/24779

However, with zoning, the thermostat also operates a motorized damper, either directly or through a central control panel. For the most part all systems operate similarly in that when any zone thermostat calls, be it for heating, cooling, or fan only, that thermostat closes its appropriate terminals, making the same terminals at the zoning panel. The panel then activates the corresponding HVAC outputs and closes the dampers to the zones not calling. When the zone thermostat’s call is satisfied, the thermostat breaks the circuits to the panel, and the heating, cooling, or fan is shut off. Wires may be crossed, broken, or shorted —typically to the zone thermostats as they are the longest runs. The ability to view the system as a whole, then take the problem and isolate it, is the first step in troubleshooting zoning. There can be multiple thermostats and dampers spread through the home, and it may take time to trace all the components of a system and check their operation. With zoning, the problem is not always at the furnace or air handler. Topics covered in Manual Zr include. ARP changes coming soon. This notice is dismissible, click the top right X and it will vanish. The ARP Forum will become Pro Member only on September 1, 2020. If you want to continue to view and reply in the ARP you must fill out the Pro application found here.To learn about our use of cookies and how you can manage your cookie settings, please see our Cookie Policy. By continuing to use the website, you consent to our use of cookies.If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact support. Dampers are unfortunately unreachable due to poor construction planning. I got the installation manual and did some tests (don't cringe. I'm a highly experienced engineer, though not an HVAC professional). http://halex-group.com/images/canon-imagerunner-2200-toner-manual.pdf

When I put back on the board and probe with a voltmeter, there is a voltage that changes with the temperature, so the remote temp input is verified to be working up to its entrance to the board. In zone 1 it displays the current temp as you would expect. 4. I verified the Option 35 -- Disable Zoning. And zone 1 and zone 2 display on the User Interface and allow you to toggle between them so you would expect option 35 to be off. Is there any other setting or simple issue that can disable zone 2 operation and make it look like the sensor didn't work. Apparently they didn't really know this sophisticated Bryant system. We're leaving on Monday but I hope to guide her in finding the right service technician and doing the right thing. Thanks.Another issue you may be having, was the user interface installed with the system and then the zoning was done at a later time. If so, some of the older models of UI were not programmed to run the zone interface. This sounds like the issue. I recently installed an infinity zone system where we had to change the UI to a more recent model, with the appropriate software built in. If you have continuity in the remote sensor wire, either the remote sensor or the control mod is defective. Unless you have the wrong UI to begin with.The UI is a Zone Perfect Plus model and looks and acts exactly like the one pictured in the Installation Manual for the system. The Equipment Controller Module and the User Interface are exactly as pictured in the Installation Manual. It also has zone settings on it and switches between zone 1 and zone 2 as I said. As I also said above, the remote sensor checks out EXACTLY correctly electrically as described in the checkout in the Installation Manual.The chart in the manual said it should read 11.86K ohms at 70 deg F, and around 70 deg it read around 11.5K ohms and the resistance decreased to about 9.

5K ohms when my assistant breathed on it with open mouth, signifying an accurate temperature rise to about 80 deg F. This procedure not only verifies that the sensor is working but also that the wires aren't broken or shorting along the way. So the remote sensor is working. I carefully reattached it to the board with the screw terminals and probed it at the board. It is part of a voltage divider on the board so I probed it with the voltmeter, and it had a voltage which changed when my assistant breathed on the sensor again so I can attest to the fact that the signal is getting onto the board properly.I know you are an engineer and all, for clarification.continuity is what a tech would refer to when looking for a bad wire. So pardon the field slang. If you didnt like my advise there is no need to respond in a nose in the air engineer type fashion. Maybe you deal with the Service Tech coming to your home in the same manner you dealt with me. It is possible that they do not Want to fix it for you. Good luck to you sir. You and the unfortunate person sent to provide you with service will need it.Its saturday and I really didnt feel like running today. That said, maybe I was hasty in assuming you were being rude. Maybe you were but the problem is there is no inflection in typed words. So I mis-read the part about the remote sensor. My original post still stands. Get a good contractor, check thier BBB rating as well as Factory Auth status. Remember that most service techs are trained in HVAC, not engineering. We may not understand electonrics in the same way you do.Post Them Here HVAC-Talk is proudly provided by: Contracting Business Magazine. We have no relationship with advertisers, products, or services discussed at this website. We describe how to find sometimes hidden manual duct dampers, and which way to set the duct damper lever to increase or decrease airflow through various sections of the ductwork and the building. www.foodsach.com/uploads/files/Dodge-Charger-Factory-Service-Manual.pdf

We explain in detail automatic duct dampers and how they work. We also describe the use of individual airflow booster fans in the ductwork or in other locations to assure adequate cool or warm air supply in all areas. You can see two black manual duct damper handles on the white (asbestos-paper-covered) heating ducts in the photo at above left. This unit is an automatic opposed-blade duct damper. In this case the damper is controlling airflow out of a supply duct into a single ceiling supply plenum and register. Similar dampers may be installed right in HVAC ducts where the ducts pass between different building areas. I will not need to heat the basement, only cool it. There is no thermostat down there and no vents. What is the best way to do this? I'm looking for stable temps all year around in the basement. I live in the Deep South so winters aren't very harsh here. To be more sophisticated you could add a second cooling zone with its own thermostat. Sounds like I need a 2 zone board, 2 zone damper, and a thermostat for the basement. The AC unit is 2.5 tons, which is plenty to supply both the living area and basement based on measurements. Why would I need to return air somewhere. Could I not just dump cool air into the basement without running a return. Please explain what you mean by return air? The air source is warm - we will never successfully dehumidify the cooled air conditioned space, and we are spending as much money as possible by always taking the heated air from area A and cooling it but sending it to area B. InspectAPedia.com provides building and environmental diagnostic and repair information. In order to absolutely assure our readers that we write and report without bias we do not sell any products nor do we have any business or financial relationships that could create such conflicts of interest. {-Variable.fc_1_url-

These systems often work using low-voltage motors and controls, powered by a separate power transformer and low voltage wiring - easy and less costly to run than a new 120V circuit. Lock, tape or tag circuit breaker or fuse so Failure to do so could result in Each zone has independentThis affects duct and damperUse this instruction toOne Zoning Board is capable ofWhen greater than fourExcerpts: The EASY ZONE TOUCH is a zone control system designed to complement a heating Unitary Products Group, York Heating and Air Conditioning,PO Box 1592, York Pennsylvania 17405 USA Alan Carson is a past president of ASHI, the American Society of Home Inspectors. Carson Dunlop Associates' provides extensive home inspection education and report writing material. The text is intended as a reference guide to help building owners operate and maintain their home effectively. Field inspection worksheets are included at the back of the volume. Special Offer: For a 10 discount on any number of copies of the Home Reference Book purchased as a single order. InspectAPedia.com editor Daniel Friedman is a contributing author. Or choose the The HOME REFERENCE eBook for PCs, Macs, Kindle, iPad, iPhone, or Android Smart Phones. Special Offer: For a 5 discount on any number of copies of the Home Reference eBook purchased as a single order. Select a model below to learn more. Forgot to adjust the temperature before you left. Simple programming technology makes it easy for you to create customized comfort schedules based on your lifestyle. Its sleek design adds polished appeal to your home and keeps you and your family comfortable year after year. When you're home, its intuitive interface puts comfort control at your fingertips through a user-friendly touch-screen design. Capable of managing a complete home comfort system including humidity, ventilation and zoning, it is also the brains behind Bryant's highest-efficiency Evolution products.

Combine that with custom energy tips and you can make informed decisions about when and how to save even more money. It can also estimate how much your settings will reduce your monthly energy bill with just the touch of a button. The Cor 5C Thermostat can be remotely controlled via the free mobile app. Set your schedule for four periods per day or two. It's about helping you save money on energy through advances in programming design, smart recovery and energy use reporting. You can see when you're spending the most on energy and tailor your settings to save. And, when you're not home, this thermostat will work to heat or cool the most efficient way possible for your system type and brand. It can store user-configured settings within its memory without batteries. You can set your schedule for four periods per day or two. During power loss, its internal memory saves settings for an unlimited time, and the clock continues to run for at least 12 hours. Then, sit back and enjoy the comfort as your system selects the optimal heating source for efficient, winter comfort along with humidity-sensing ability all year long. And since it's so simple to program schedules for both the work week and weekend, saving money on your energy bills will be easy, too. You'll enjoy both greater comfort and lower energy costs, all from a single, powerful source. As a result, it can deliver the best combination of energy savings and comfort throughout the day. And because you'll find it so simple to use, your family's comfort is only a button click away. At just over an inch in depth, this unobtrusive control is so simple to use, your family's comfort is only a button click away. Doesn't matter. However they described it, there's one piece they absolutely should NOT have installed. The word zoning is used in more than one way in the context of heating and air conditioning systems in a house. First, larger houses are always zoned. www.fotografiacantero.com/fotografia_userfiles/files/Dodge-Challenger-V6-Manual-Transmission-Conversion.pdf

That is, they have more than one thermostat so you can control the conditions separately in different parts of the house. If you have a two-story house, for example, you probably have at least two thermostats — one upstairs and one downstairs. In most homes, each thermostat is connected to its own heating and cooling system. The home is zoned, but the HVAC system is not. In a 'zoned system,' a single heating and air conditioning system is controlled by multiple thermostats in multiple zones. Depending on the needs of the house, any combination of 1, 2, or 3 zone dampers may be open and sending conditioned air to their respective zones. Enter the bypass duct, shown at right. When the system is running but not all zone dampers are open, the bypass duct—in theory—is supposed to relieve the extra pressure and maintain good air flow throughout the duct system. Chitwood likes them and says when done right, they provide exceptional performance. That makes the evaporator coil get colder, and the colder it gets, the less efficient it becomes. Even with all three zone dampers open, the bypass duct has a big pressure difference across it, and air is lazy. It'll cheat and take the path of least resistance whenever possible, in this case the bypass duct. It's really hard to push air through a solid block of ice.) I do believe that Chitwood is right, but so is Proctor. I think Proctor's main objection isn't that zoned systems can't work; it's that they're done wrong so often. In the end, if you do get one, make absolutely sure the installer doesn't put in a bypass duct. Another would be spending lots of time testing and balancing the air flow in all modes. Yes, the extra air has to go somewhere, but you shouldn't just dump it back into the return. Coupled with an Infinity zoning system, it has the potential to modulate capacity and match the load down to 40 of full capacity. So as long as the smallest load is 40 or more, it wont need a bypass. A couple challenges need to be conquered before it becomes mainstream. (1) Modulating airflow compromises the performance of the terminals. (2) High Cost. (3) No one at Carrier knows how to design a duct for it. (they do know the electronics) (4) Bubba and Earl aint never gonna figger out how much freezone to put in this thing. As you point out, though, it doesn't come without some associated costs, and not just the monetary ones. All you have to do is set the dampers so that they do not close all the way 20-30 open and allow the excess air. It costs a couple of screws. Here is why based on my experience: I installed a zone system in a large condo once, and sized my AC unit 30 smaller than Man S, and designed the zones to follow the suns path, thinking it would be needed. It malfunctioned and when I arrived it was not working at all, as in all zones were calling. The house was at 65 degrees at 106 degrees outside. I realized then that if the system is balanced right, and sized right, that zones are irrelevant. I haven't installed one since, and at the same time I have been pushing the sizing lower than the Man S calls for, just to see how far down the rabbit hole I can go, without zones. The lower I go the better the air equalizes temperature. Once I get to the bottom I may consider zones for special cases, like sun rooms, etc. In fact I have been taking zones out of houses I redesign, and I have a nice collection of control boards and dampers piling up. LOL. Following the KISS principle is always a good way to go, and zoned HVAC systems aren't so simple to do right. The statement that all 3 dampers will be closed when the system is off is incorrect. The zone dampers default open when the HVAC system is off. It is true, unfortunately, that many bypass ducts are not properly designed nor installed correctly. When bypass sizing restrictions are followed and a means of setting differential pressure is installed into the bypass duct, the bypass flow will not adversely affect the HVAC system. Even the Carrier Infinity system will need a bypass, if too many small zones are created. In addition, zone systems should always have a Supply Air Sensor installed to protect against low Dx coil temperatures. Too often the contractor does not install it. There are many ways to manage airflow in a zoned system. A single method alone is insufficient. Those who rely upon the bypass alone are who get into trouble. There are many opinions out there. Just wanted to set the record straight. Not all do that, however. Some are normally closed when the system is off. Regarding the use of bypass ducts, if John Proctor and Rick Chitwood say they're a bad idea, that's good enough for me. Those guys are two of the most knowledgeable people in the world when it comes to high performance HVAC. Why not just prohibit Flex-duct also. Very few contractors size and install flex-duct correctly, which is the primary root cause for poor airflow and efficiency losses in any HVAC system whether it is zoned or not. But Flex-duct will not be prohibited because it is a valuable tool used in many different applications. Contractors need Mfr's support and guidance to properly design and install these systems. A properly sized and installed bypass duct is a valuable tool in airflow management. It can be installed in a way to get good static pressures and air flow, although, as you point out, it rarely is. I wrote an article on that topic a few months ago: Should Flex Duct Be Banned by Green Building Programs?. In fact, I've written many, many articles on ducts in this blog. Now, back to bypass dampers: I agree that they can help with total external static pressure and maybe with air flow, but how do you suggest they be installed to eliminate the three problems I described in the article. I'm especially interested in hearing how you address the first one. Any homeowner can get on an uniformed rampage and spew information that they assume is accurate. But we all know what happens when we assume. We should leave the HVAC stuff to the professionals. We should all check our information and the source. The uninformed are just as dangerous as the mis-informed. You're evidently reacting to something you don't like without having done your homework. The ones who did this. Or this ? Or this ? If you have anything at all to do with residential HVAC, I advise you to find out who John Proctor and Rick Chitwood are. Ask him about his house in Nevada County, CA! However, I too avoid zoned systems when I can. Though I work almost exclusively in the commercial industry, I share your concerns with bypass ducts. We often find them completely out of commission soon after installation.You mentioned I should do my homework. Even the best implementation will have negative impact on system performance. There's no getting around the fact that bypass air will move compressor away from its optimum operating point. A well-designed duct system and bypass will mitigate the effect, but there's always an impact. It's not hard to accommodate single-stage zoning with without having to resort to bypass. My approach is a combination of upsized ducts and bleed-through (as Chris correctly advocated). Also, I make room assignments to zones according to similarity of load profiles. Once I have my airflow targets, I divide heating CFM by cooling CFM and look at ratios (ignoring rooms like halls and foyers where temperature swings are no issue). In my experience, this is not typically done and is a big reason many zoned systems perform poorly. Equipment manufacturers support bypass because they don't have control over duct design. Bypass has, for many years, been the status-quo for zoned system. The obvious example is a two-story home with one HVAC system. North Carolina, and perhaps other states, now require zoning (or multiple systems) for multi-level homes. For small homes, separate systems is too costly and often adds too much capacity. And what about a large walk-out basement, where it's not unusual for cooling load to be dominated by solar gain and heating load to be dominated by slab losses. In any case, Proctor is BY FAR not the only mechanical system expert who advocates against bypass. Typically 3. A means of setting sufficient delta P, preventing the bypass from becoming the path of least resistance. 4. Last but not least. Contractor training and education is imperative, along with proper Mfr.See David Butler's comment right before yours. Don't get me wrong. I'm not arguing against zoning because I think it can be useful. I just happen to agree with the sizable number of HVAC pros who say that bypass ducts shouldn't be used. Or do some modulate the dampers? 2) Did someone hint at never fully closing any zone so that you never exceed a maximum pressure? (Essentially a bypass to all portions of the house rather than bypass back to the return side.) 3) Why not up-size the supply ducts so the pressure drops are low enough to eliminate the excess pressure problem? When designing a zoned duct system, I rely on a combination of (2) and (3) to ensure adequate airflow across the coil. If I have an especially small zone, I may gang it with a large zone, whereby a call from the small zone will open the large zone, but not vice versa. Plus I may overisze the ducts in small zones a bit more than the others.It's something you always have to pay attention to when you're doing a duct leakage test. Example one: Homeowner decides to finish their basement on an existing home. 2 options are available: a) new system for basement or b) Zone from existing system conditioning the main floor. The new system option is expensive and generally way oversized as most basements have little to no load. The systems rarely runs and if it does the run time is not long enough to remove any humidity. Option 2 is to zone off main level. There will be no negative pressure in the basement as you set the dampers to close 90 when no call from the basement zone, thus always supplying a small amount of air when the system is operating. Example 2 has already been stated. Variable speed and properly sized ductwork to avoid the by-pass. I will try to find more info from proctor to see if i can learn anything new. In some cases, as you showed, it just makes sense to zone a single system rather than throw another system in there. Thanks for your comment! I always hesitate to specify zoning on a project unless I have control over who does the mechanical work. The bypass only opens as dampers close. 2)Coils should never freeze up when using bypass dampers becuase a discharge air sensor is used to prevent this from happening. 3)A colder coil temperature is not the only factor in the equation of energy usage. What about decreased equipment run time when using zoning with programmable thermostats? I haven't installed one since, and at the same time I have been pushing the sizing lower than the Man S calls for, just to see how far down the rabbit hole I can go, without zones. I do like and see advantage to communicating zoning, particularly in large homes. When computers and printers became available typewriters became obsolete. Communicating zoning has done the same thing to the bypass damper.Single speed air conditioners draw almost the same watts whether you deliver all the capacity to the house or only some of it. With a bypass duct, you always hurt the efficiency of the unit. For example, a 25 bypass reduces the efficiency by 12. Field studies and Carrier Corporation lab tests have shown the same thing. Larger bypasses are obviously worse. 2) When making a presentation at a conference, the title of the talk is intended to get people to come.