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A list of modern browsers is below; simply click an icon to go to the browser’s download page. Would you like to visit Browning International? If you cannot find the manual you need please use our online order system or contact us directly at any time by e-mail or by phone during office hours. It is important that you read and understand your firearm's owner's manual thoroughly before using it. They range in size from 1mb to 10mb. These files require Adobe Acrobat Reader 6 or above. If you do not have this program installed on your computer, you will not be able to view these files. If you need Adobe Acrobat Reader you can get this free program from Adobe. Try our on-line manual order form. If this does not seem to work, we recommend you click the links below with your right mouse button, then select Save Target As from the menu (or similar wording, depending on your browser). How seriously you take these responsibilities can be the difference between life and death. There is no excuse for careless or abusive handling of any firearm. At all times handle this firearm and all other firearms with intense respect for their power and potential danger. Please read and understand all of the cautions, warnings, notices, proper handling procedures and instructions outlined in this owner’s manual before using your new firearm. Be extremely alert and aware of all persons and property within the range of your ammunition. Mechanical “safeties” are designed to place your firearm in a safer status, and no guarantee can be made that the firearm will not fire even if the “safety” is in the on safe position. Mechanical “safeties” merely aid safe gun handling and are no excuse for pointing your firearm’s muzzle in an unsafe direction.Always treat this firearm with the respect due a loaded, ready-to-fire firearm. Remember, merely removing the magazine does not mean the chamber is unloaded. http://www.steeplebartonpc.org.uk/userfiles/confirmit-manual.xml

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Always keep the chamber empty and the “safety” in the on safe position unless shooting is imminent. Wear hearing protection (shooting earplugs or muffs) to guard against such damage. Allow proper distance (eye relief) between a scope and your eye when firing a scoped rifle, shotgun or pistol. Do not use unorthodox shooting methods that could cause the rearward travel of the slide or bolt of a firearm to contact your eyes, face or hands. Always keep a safe distance between the muzzle of your firearm and any persons nearby, as muzzle blast, debris and ejecting shells could inflict serious injury. Be extremely careful while hunting or during any shooting activity to avoid dropping any firearm. The following rules should always be observed by you and those you hunt with. Always make certain that the stand being used is safe and stable. Always make certain that your firearm is unloaded when it is being taken up and down from the stand. Always make certain that your firearm is not dropped from the stand, or dropped while it is being taken up or down from the stand. Store all firearms in secure, locked cases or a gun safe. Keep your firearm unloaded when not in use. It only takes a small obstruction to cause dangerously increased pressures that can damage your firearm and cause serious injury to yourself and others. Rotate the ejection area of the firearm away from you, carefully open the action and remove the shell from the chamber. If the primer is indented, the defective shell should be disposed of in a way that cannot cause harm. If the primer is not indented, your firearm should be examined by a qualified gunsmith and the cause of the malfunction corrected before further use. Glance down the barrel to make sure that no obstructions remain in the barrel. Completely clear the barrel before loading and firing again. Failure to follow these instructions can cause extensive damage to your firearm and possible serious injury to yourself and others. http://korzayithalat.com/spot/admin/fckeditor/userfiles/confirmit-reportal-manual.xml

Store all shells of different gauges in completely separate and well-marked containers. Never store shells of mixed gauges in a common container or in your pockets.It is your responsibility to read and heed all warnings in this owner’s manual and on ammunition boxes.Nevertheless, we can assume no liability for incidents which occur through the use of shells of nonstandard dimensions or which develop pressures in excess of commercially available ammunition which has been loaded in accordance with standards established by the Sporting Arms and Ammunition Manufacturers’ Institute (SAAMI). Never shoot at water or hard objects. If you observe other shooters violating any of these safety precautions, politely suggest safer handling practices. Keep ammunition away from the cleaning location. Never test the mechanical function of any firearm with live ammunition. Encourage enrollment in hunting and shooting safety courses. We assume no liability for incidents which occur when unsafe or improper firearm accessories or ammunition combinations are used. Browning firearms should be serviced by a Browning Recommended Service Center or by our Service Facility in Arnold, Missouri. We assume no responsibility for injuries suffered or caused by unauthorized servicing, alterations or modifications of Browning firearms. Browning firearms are designed and engineered to meet stringent safety standards. Browning is not responsible for personal injuries or property damage caused by alterations to a firearm. This includes the incorporation of aftermarket parts or components that may or may not satisfy Sporting Arms and Ammunition Manufacturers’ Institute (SAAMI) standards (for example, an aftermarket trigger system may not satisfy SAAMI minimum trigger pull standards, etc.) or may create other dangerous conditions. https://ayurvedia.ch/downshifting-manual

These conditions may or may not be apparent to the user (for example, installing an aftermarket barrel may have the effect of altering critical firearm dimensions, including headspace, and may create an unsafe firing condition, etc.). Aftermarket parts or components that do not satisfy SAAMI standards, or that could create other dangerous conditions, should not be used. Visit the Web site of the California Attorney General at for information on firearm laws applicable to you and how you can comply. If you keep a loaded firearm where a child obtains and improperly uses it, you may be fined or sent to prison. Visite la pagina web de California Attorney General, para mas informacion sobre como cumplir con las leyes de armas de fuego. Si usted deja un arma cargada al alcance de un nino, y este la utiliza indebidamente,usted podria ser multado e incluso enviado a la carcel. The Gold 12 and 20 gauge incorporate the best of traditional Browning craftsmanship and advanced technology. It is against postal and most commerce regulations. Do this for the safety of both your gun and yourself. With the action open, glance down the barrel to make sure that a wad or other obstruction does not remain in the barrel. Completely clear the barrel before loading and firing again.Three Shot AdapterIt is important to follow the exact sequence for assembly in steps 1 and 2, in order to properly assemble your Gold shotgun.Slide the gas bracket and gas piston over the magazine tube. You will then have two compact units: the barrel, and the action with stock and forearm. CAUTION: AFTER THE BARREL HAS BEEN REMOVED FROM YOUR GUN below. If, at some future time you wish to limit your gun to three shots again, unscrew the magazine cap and remove the magazine spring retainer. Lightly press the three-shot adapter toImp. Modified. Modified. Imp. Cylinder. SkeetWipe the receiver cavity clean. Lightly oil the cavity and wipe it dry. http://karmakine.com/images/canon-faxphone-l90-manual.pdf

The 20 gauge shell, unfortunately, will not fall completely through the barrel; its rim is caught by the. Click on any part number highlighted in red to view specific details or to purchase online. It is recommended that all parts be fit by a qualified gunsmith. Not all parts that are available for online purchase are shown on the schematic. Please scroll down for a complete list of all parts available. All rights reserved. The Underappreciated Browning Gold This year I decided I was tired of shooting doves with plastic-stocked guns and went looking for something a little classier. I found a used Browning Gold at a good price. After I pointed out a dent in the vent rib and whined, I got an even better price on it. It shoots where I look. Although this one is unadorned, like all Brownings it is nicely finished and a definite aesthetic upgrade over the all-black 391 I am now relegating to ducks only. Once I add a sling to the Gold I will have my ideal dove gun. I took an early model down to Uruguay on a duck hunt and it not only turned into a single shot on the first morning of the hunt, I had to take it apart almost every time I fired it to get the spent shell out. I stood knee-deep in a South American swamp juggling pieces of gun after every shot fearing I would drop one in the water while all around me the rest of the group rained ducks out of the sky. I shot borrowed guns for the rest of the trip. My gun is a 3-inch Gold from 1996 and works beautifully if I run it almost dry with a little bit of oil on the bolt rails. Last year on the way home after finishing for the day I watched a couple of young fellas in layout blinds hunting. Yep, that could be tough on sales. Hard to believe Browning would float something like that on the market without adequately testing it first. Increasing pattern density to absurd levels is a good thing if one just wants to kill waterfowl only for the sake of killing.

But most of us have (or should have) ethical concerns about not wasting game. The endless debate rages on here quite frequently about the ethics of shooting hopped up specialty bullets at big game in the next county. Maybe I came on the forum too late to discuss the ethics of similarly shooting at birds in the next county with souped up shotgun loads. I don't recall any threads on the subject. Maybe there should be. He's absolutely deadly shooting pheasants with it. Methinks you misunderstand. Enter the Federales. Now you are using steel. Steel, even soft steel, is harder on barrels than lead, so you have nice big thick wads designed to help. Adding a bit of space in the shell gives you the ability to add more pellets. These pellets have the same kinetic energy as their old lead counterparts, but they are a lot more bulky. So I don't see that as overkill, only compensation. But it seems like your outfitter should have suggested a backup gun up front. I know mine did on my first wing shooting trip out of the country, as well as recommending ear, eye and shoulder protection. Oh, well, lessons learned the hard way are usually learned forever, huh? I agree. I bought a gold to replace my much older, longer, and heavier A-5 in the turkey woods. I can screw in a XX full and create a turkey killing machine. I can replace the XX with an improved or modified and make it a pleasure to shoot in the dove fields. There's a strong contingent of shooters who love the gun. And just as strong a contingent who'd love to throw the gun in a lake. That's the gun I worked on for this article. I had already done it on mine, and a couple others. It made a difference on all of them. One thing to keep in mind: This is just a cleaning process, not a repair. If you're a sporting clays shooter who uses his gun a lot, you might want to do this twice a year. For the average hunter, going through this cleaning process once a season should be plenty. copenhagenpools.com/contents//files/Dlink-804-Manual.pdf

They don't open the owner's manual before taking the gun in the field. They assume a new gun should be ready to shoot right out of the package. Since it's never removed, this anti-rust compound holds the three G's that cause cycling problems: grease, grime and gunpowder residue. One last piece of advice taken from the Browning owner's manual: BEFORE STARTING DISASSEMBLY PROCEDURES, VISUALLY INSPECT THE CHAMBER, FEED MECHANISM AND MAGAZINE TO BE ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN THE SHOTGUN IS COMPLETELY UNLOADED.This process is a little messier than routine gun care. I expect you'll find parts that are packed with grease. That grease is what we want to remove, and then apply a dry lubricant that won't hold gunpowder residue. If you want to keep your hands clean, those gloves can help. It's also convenient and easy to use to wipe down pieces that might need it. Remove the magazine cap, forend, barrel, gas piston, gas sleeve and sleeve spring. You want to start by checking the gas ports in the bottom of the barrel and the gas piston. Both should be clean and free of debris. If they aren't, this is a good time to clean them. Keeping these parts clean is especially crucial on any gasoperated autoloader. In fact, I'd put this down as routine maintenance you should be doing after firing it. It's as critical as keeping the barrel clean and well maintained. Any excess lube on these parts should be cleaned off. Extending from the receiver forward will be the magazine tube. It's important to keep the carbon buildup off the tube for the gas piston to slide freely. To do this, use some of your cleaning solvent with the green 3M pot scrubber. You want this surface as clean and shiny as possible. Then take the 3M pad and scrub the inside of the gas piston. On the bottom of the piston is an anodized-aluminum nut. You want to pay special attention to it. Use the 3M pad to clean it thoroughly. As a final step, spray inside the gas piston with Gun Scrubber and set aside. {-Variable.fc_1_url-

It should be dry and ready for reassembly when the time comes. Once the barrel is off, the rest of the gun is a little easier to manage. Flip it over and start by removing the butt pad. There are two holes in the pad that have screws holding the pad to the stock. Back each screw almost all the way out of the butt pad, or until you feel it release from the stock. The top screw is at a slight upward angle, so if you're having trouble finding that one, angle your screwdriver up about 10 degrees to catch the head of the screw. As you remove the butt pad, you're going to see the recoil-spring tube. At the end of it is going to be a nut, spacer and oblong stopper that holds the stock on. It's this tube, and the pieces inside, that we're going to focus on cleaning. The extension is handy to let the ratchet handle move freely. It also is handy for another job later in the procedure. Once you take the nut out, the stock should slide right off. If you look down inside the stock, you can see grease and residue in the tube of the butt stock where the recoil-spring tube is. A 12-ga. BoreSnake works well here to clean that area thoroughly. Just run it through a couple of times and that part should be done. If you don't have a BoreSnake, you can use an old rag and run it down the length of the stock a couple of times to clean it out. Use solvent to clean the stopper, spacer and nut from the end of the recoil-spring tube. Set those aside for reassembly. Thoroughly clean the outside of the recoil-spring tube. Again, it should have gunpowder residue and grime on it. All of that can, and should, be removed. Any leftover grease here could migrate back into the recoil-spring tube and recoil-spring follower, and you'll be repeating this process sooner than normal. Once the outside of the tube is clean, you're ready to work inside it and the receiver. Release the bolt to its forward position by depressing the carrier release button and cautiously closing the bolt.

Don't let the bolt slam forward without the barrel on the gun or you could damage the receiver. Take the trigger mechanism out by using the awl and pushing the trigger pins out. The trigger assembly should come free and just slide out of the bottom of the receiver. Clean the trigger assembly thoroughly with your solvent, brush, Gun Scrubber and canned air. All of the visible grease and grime should be cleaned out.Just clean the outer portion. Once your trigger mechanism is out, you can remove the bolt. The bolt is easily removed by depressing the cartridge stop and pulling out the bolt handle. Once the handle is removed, keep the cartridge stop depressed and slide the bolt out of the front of the receiver. This gives you a good, clear field of view to see down the recoil-spring tube into the receiver and check it for the three G's. At the end of the recoil-spring tube is a small pin. This pin holds the recoil spring in the tube. You want to block the end of that tube with your hand so the spring doesn't shoot out, then use the awl to push the pin out. Pull the spring out. One end should be forked to hold tightly to the pin. The other end should hold the recoil-spring follower, which is the main culprit for a lot of your problems. If that follower is covered in grease, grime and gunpowder residue, it doesn't slide in the tube properly and doesn't give the bolt the power it needs to force the next shell into the receiver. If your recoil spring comes apart from the follower when you take it out, it's easily put back together. You'll see the pieces come together properly because the bolt-slide link fits into the bored end of the recoil-spring follower. To clean the recoil-spring tube, it's best to use a cleaning rod with solvent and a couple of patches. You can run the cleaning rod through the tube to start eating away at the grease and grime. This part should be fairly dirty. www.corwell.co.uk/userfiles/files/Dixon-5501-Manual.pdf

Any excess gunpowder residue should have been caught in this tube, making the grease dark and dirty. Make sure you clean the inside of the tube thoroughly and give it a second to dry before attempting reassembly. Clean the spring with solvent and a small brush, then use Gun Scrubber. Pay attention to the inside of the spring as well as the outside. Any grease held inside the spring will eventually migrate to the outside and gum up the action again. Besides having the tube especially clean, you want to thoroughly clean the recoil-spring follower. It should be free of all grease, grime and gunpowder residue before reinstalling it in the tube. If this piece isn't clean, you'll be repeating this process sooner than you would like. Wipe off the remainder of cleaning solvent and let it dry. Use a dry lube to lubricate the bolt rails (a great time to do this with the bolt out), recoil-spring follower and recoil spring. Once the lube is dry, you're ready to reassemble. Start by reinserting the recoil-spring follower and spring into the recoil-spring tube. Once you get the spring nearly compressed into the tube, use the square end from the small extension of your ratchet to push the forked end of the recoil spring deep enough to reinstall the pin. You can do this with your finger if you don't have an extension. It does take a little timing and patience to accomplish. If you're having problems with this part, you might need a helper to push the spring in while you install the pin. Once you get the spring back in, you can reinstall the bolt by first sliding in the bolt-slide link. You want to align the boltslide link with the recoil-spring follower and then reinstall the bolt handle. Depress the cartridge stop and reinstall the bolt handle, paying attention that after the handle is installed the cartridge stop pops back out into position. You should hear an audible click. You'll know it's installed correctly when you pull the bolt back and feel the recoil spring engage. If they're not lined up properly, the bolt will float in the receiver with no resistance, or you won't be able to move it at all because the bolt-slide link will prop itself against part of the receiver. Now you're ready to reinstall the trigger mechanism. Simply match up the holes on the receiver with the holes on the trigger mechanism and slide the pins in. Make sure at this point that the bolt is locked back in the open position. Hitting the carrier release button will cause damage in the receiver when the bolt slams forward without the barrel on the gun. Having the bolt open also helps when you reinstall the barrel. Slide the stock over the recoil-spring tube. Then slide on the stopper, spacer and nut. Reinstall the butt pad and all you have left to put on is the gas-piston assembly and barrel, a process you should already be familiar with from your routine maintenance. When reinstalling the gas piston, since you cleaned it, make sure you use a little bit of lube on it so it moves freely on the magazine tube. Following this process gives you peace of mind knowing that if there is still a cycling issue, it's not because your gun wasn't cleaned properly. It also gives you a chance to discover cycling problems because of a worn out or broken part. Illustration courtesy of Browning Arms. The name Browning has always meant shotguns and pheasant hunting to me. Though reliable it was one of the strangest fitting shotguns I've ever owned. Meaning, I really didn't understand how it could possibly fit any human being. After all this, at long last came the Browning Gold. (The Browning Gold is also marketed as the Winchester Super X2 in a somewhat plainer configuration.) I've owned, and extensively hunted with, at least five Browning Golds. All have been outstanding performers, providing a couple of tweaks are made. The self-regulating gas system handles a wide range of shells, from magnum to standard, interchangeably. The gas piston design is a good one, and has done a good job handling a huge variety of loads in all the models I've owned. All have been soft shooters. Every Gold I've owned has had a heavy trigger, heavier than the gun itself, so a trigger job has always been the first order of business. The oversized triangular trigger-guard safety is one of the best ever, hard to miss even with gloved, frozen hands. However, more often than not, it had been very hard to get off due to stiffness. An eight pound trigger and a fourteen pound safety has been the norm. Both are taken care of in the same one-time trip to the gunsmith. After the initial trigger and safety attention, you have one of the very finest semi-autos on the market. As time has gone on, more and more models have been introduced, to the point whether you are a clays enthusiast, male, female, youth, Browning has enough breadth in their product line to satisfy. The 20 gauge, in particular, is just an amazingly soft shooter.Whether skeet, sporting clays, dove, pheasant, or in the goose blind, the Golds that have been rode hard and put away wet have never hiccuped for me. I convinced my friend, Dave Metcalf, an expert gunsmith and shootist to try scattergun sports for a while. Well, Dave can take a dare. Many shotguns came and went, but his 12 ga. Gold stuck around, and he's done great with it. As it is today, the Browning Gold in 12 or 20 gauge is one of the most competent, fun-to-shoot, hassle free semi-autos you can buy. The available configurations are increasing every year, so if you are in the market for a semi-auto it should be on your short list. They are wonderfully reliable, soft shooting, smooth swinging shotguns that by now are extremely wellproven performers. Regardless of your shotgunning needs you owe it to yourself to spend some time with one of them, if not two or three. Note: Two full length reviews of Browning Gold Superlight Hunter shotguns can be found on the Product Review Page. You will receive a link to create a new password. On my first trip to the sporting clay range I found it easier to hit with than my Beretta 686, 20 GA. But it didn't cycle 24 grams steel shells. Reading forums on the net the answer seems to be cleaning and dry lube. For this the gun need to be disassembeled a bit more than what is showed in the manual. I like to document stuff like this by taking pictures and make my own kind of manual. By sharing it on the net it's accessible for me from all locations and computers. Hopefully somebody else also might find it helpful. Inspect the magazine, feed mechanism and chamber to be sure they do not contain any shells. Unscrew the magazine cap: Remove the forearm by sliding it forward off the magazine tube: Remove the barrel by sliding it forward: Remove the piston, piston sleeve and spring by sliding them forward and off the magazine tube. Removing the trigger group and bolt assembly: Release the bolt carefully to its forward position. Hold the bolt handle and depress the carrier release button, ease the bolt forward. Use the punch to push the trigger guard pins inwards. Turn the receiver and pull out the pins. Pull out the trigger group by the trigger guard. Arrow pointing at the cartridge stop which need to be pushed in for the next two steps. Push in the cartridge stop and pull out the bolt handle. Push in the cartridge stop and and push the bolt assembly forward..and pull it out of the receiver. Separate the bolt assembly. Removing magazine spring: Depress the magazine spring retainer tab.Ease the retainer out and control the releasing of the spring with your fingers. Turn the muzzle of the magazine tube downwards into your hand and catch the magazine follower. Removing the stock: Remove the butt pad using the appropriate screwdriver bit. Remove the Stock Bolt Plate, Stock Bolt Washer and Stock Bolt Nut. Slide the stock off the action spring tube, keeping track of the shim. Action spring removal: Press out the action spring retainer pin. Secure the action spring retainer and remove the pin. Ease the retainer out and control the releasing of the spring with your fingers. Action spring, -plunger, -retainer and -pin. Cleaning: Clean all parts using a gun cleaner of renowned make. Pay special attention to: Gas ports. Clean by a pipe cleaner soaked in gun cleaner. Magazine tube, inside. Push a suitable piece of rag cloth trough the tube and tie a knot on the end. Soak it in gun cleaner and pull it trough several times. Magazine tube, outside. This should be like a mirror. Use Scotch-brite and gun cleaner. If that does not help, try carefully with 000 steel wool. Piston, inside and out. Action spring tube. Clean it as you clean the barrel. Apply a gun oil of renowned make on a cloth and wipe down all parts. This is for removing traces of gun cleaner that should not be left on gun parts. Finish with a dry cloth. Apply Dry Lube on all moving parts during the process of reasembly. (To be continued with assembly)I requested this become a stickie in the Browning forum. Mark I'll second that motion.Items other than a complete shotgun go in OTHER Classifieds. I requested this become a stickie in the Browning forum. Mark I did move it, but I can also see where it is a good fit in the Gunsmithing section. I can always move it back if it seems a better choice.Here's a link on how I clean and lube the Gold. Use a good synthetic oil like CLP, FP-10, or Militec.I've a Gold Sporting Clays that's only fired about 750 shells from new - part of the reason for that is it jams on me a lot when I use it for clays. I've stripped it down as much as is possible and have cleaned and Froglube'd and rebuilt it but it still jams up, it happens after the fired shell is ejected the next full shell is only part transferred up to the breech and the mechanism sticks around a 45 degree angle, once it starts it seems to get worse and worse so much so I don't use the gun very often now, would anyone have an idea as to what's wrong.I am replacing the action spring in the stock to see if it is an issue. She averages 1-2 hangups every round. I have cleaned and lubed everything. Will try dry lube.I bought it new several years ago, and have never fired it. I was in Bass Pro Shops and thought it was pretty so I bought it. Now, my brother wants me to go shoot some clays with him.I know that I should deep clean the gun as was posted here with nice pictures.I don't think I still have the skill to do that (84 now and I don't shoot much). Anyone know a gunsmith in the Ft. Lauderdale area that might know how to do that.In a pinch, I guess I could mail it to someone.any suggestions? Thanks, BruceDoes any one know how to bring the photographs from photobucket and set them up here? TomDoes any one know how to bring the photographs from photobucket and set them up here. Tom You could go to your PB account and copy each of the pictures to your HD and then upload them to the photo storage here.I don't have the computer knowledge to download pictures. I do good just to type a few words. TomI don't have the computer knowledge to download pictures. I do good just to type a few words. Tom Then, why did you ask the previous question? This site does not allow me to make a change or edit in someone else's post. Even if I could I don't know where the pictures are. I was hoping the original poster or a moderator with the authority would put the pictures back in. This was a good thread. Without the pictures no one can use it.